Flying Fish

Port Moody isn’t typically the first community which comes to mind when discussing outstanding food, and I don’t know about you, but to me “Flying Fish Grill” sounds more like a Saturday afternoon fish and chips joint than a purveyor of fine seafood, but let me assure you, Port Moody indeed contains some good food, and the Flying Fish Market & Grill serves as one of the best examples.

Some initial disclaimers: The Flying Fish doesn’t try to be anything it’s not. You’ll find no hipster Yaletown-like bar/lounge area packed with waitstaff hired more for their modeling experience rather than their service credentials. You’ll also be disappointed if you’re looking for self-consciously exotic more-modern-than-modern menu stylings.

What you will find are classic offerings from people who really know and love their seafood.

The core of the menu consists of about a dozen fish offerings offered in a mix and match arrangement with about eight varied sauces. The fish selections range from old standards like cod, halibut, and red snapper, to more unusual fish like marlin, monkfish, and mahi mahi. The sauces, as well, spanned the gamut from a light California Citrus to spicy Red Thai Curry.

In addition, the Flying Fish offers a variety of specialty entrees: Alaskan King Crab, Atlantic Lobster, smoked black cod, and a variety of different oyster and mussel selections.

Most dishes are served with a savoury wild rice pilaf, and a mixed vegetable combination, which in our case included steamed zucchini, acorn squash, sprouted onions, carrots, and baby bok choy.

On our visit we tried the Smoked Black Cod with California Citrus glaze, and the Alaskan King Crab dinner. Both were heavenly, the king crab being prepared as well as I’ve ever had it, sweet and succulent, and the black cod being a prime example of a great way to serve this rich and complex fish. They were so good, in fact, that it will be difficult to order anything else on a return visit, of which there will probably be many.

The menu is pricey, with entrees ranging from around $18 for the economical pasta dishes to around $50 for the lobster and crab, but a quiet evening of cloth napkins and candlelight made it seem justified, and the quality of the food lived up to its price tag.

6 Comments so far

  1. Ryan Cousineau (unregistered) on April 3rd, 2006 @ 12:35 am

    Have you been to the nearby Saint Street Grill? How would you compare the quality of the food?


  2. Matt (unregistered) on April 3rd, 2006 @ 8:29 am

    I haven’t tried the Saint Street Grill, but I have to say, it was pretty hard to find fault with Flying Fish’s food.

    I’ll have to check out Saint Street next, though, if you claim it’s worthy of the same kind of rating.


  3. Maktaaq (unregistered) on April 3rd, 2006 @ 9:52 am

    I’ve heard mixed reviews of the Saint Street Grill as well as some snarky smalltown gossip. I was put off by some of the said gossip that made the guy who runs the place sound really snobby.


  4. Ryan Cousineau (unregistered) on April 3rd, 2006 @ 1:11 pm

    I haven’t noticed that, but then again, my wife and I were literally the first paying customers they ever had.

    Alas, circumstance has meant that we don’t go back that often; maybe once in the last year for me, twice for the missus.

    How snobby can you be when you’re competing for the title of best restaurant in Port Moody? There’s really only the Flying Fish (and of course, Pajo’s) to compete with.


  5. Maktaaq (unregistered) on April 3rd, 2006 @ 2:05 pm

    My boss and I were just comparing notes: he thinks the former 1823 was Port Moody’s best (in pioneer Dr. Symmes’ house on St Johns, now the Shinjuku Restaurant), I think the Greek place, Rodos Cuzina next to the IGA is fantastic.


  6. Maktaaq (unregistered) on April 3rd, 2006 @ 2:07 pm

    Hmm, methinks we should have a Port Moody food face-off:

    The Flying Fish
    Saint St Grill
    Pajos
    Rodos Cuzina
    Presto Deli (awesome pasta!)
    Carefree Chinese Restaurant
    Bagel Place in Newport Village



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